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CASTLES today we walked on cobblestone and up on through old medieval forests to see an old medieval castle. we're in Croatia's capital, Zagreb, meaning "against the hill." the yoga we came here to teach is fast and furious, but the city is slow and savory. with a mandate to jazzercise with yoga poses, and an insistence on keeping US out of the classroom, we focus on the joys of an old European city-- a raw city, wearing its history on its walls and rooftops, like proud crowsfeet on the eyes of an old European woman selling flowers in the market just outside our door. no, this city is not polished and shiny like Vienna. it is pungent and real, and the people are still fond of simple pleasures--cafes, coffee, ice cream, and hot corn on the street. rediscovering ourselves and each other as we travel-- no longer littered with our cultural burdens, we become wanderers and philosophers. and for someone who hasn't eaten cheese or meat in a very long time, i've shopped with the locals, bringing home giant, solid rounds of hand-formed goat cheese and dense cornbread. We eat meaty sandwiches and octopus swimming in butter. We eat whatever they eat, and it is rich but real. AGAINST THE HILL [2004-09-21]
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